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So glad you that you got some valuable information! Good luck with your drip system and thanks for watching!

Sorry Paul, thought I had already answered this for you. I would use a clamp on the PEX. I'm not 100% sure, but I think all PEX connections should have one. I certainly do no matter what the pressure is, but I don't deal with it much.

Daaang, 5 minute unskippable ad is crazy. They tried to serve me up a 17 min ad once, but it was skippable. Sorry about that!

​@Proirrigationtraining I guess RUclips is trying to get more people to pay for a subscription by way of torture. Lol

You mean your bored. Your lack of interest is on you.

It's not necessary to have a pressure reducer before anything, it's just that I have 95 PSI at that faucet and pretty much none of this equipment is designed to handle that much. Usually the recommendation is 40 PSI max, some parts have 35 as the max. If each of your spigots have a pressure reducer and your inlet pressure isn't crazy, you probably don't need another one. If you water is already filtered, then you don't need one presumably. don't need to blow it out but once upon installation, and maybe again at the yearly start up. Thanks for watching and your questions!

@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you for your answers. This really helped.

@@kp-gbuniqueinterest Glad to help!

The purple one may be called a drip multi-tool, others are just called a hole-punch. Thanks for watching!

I've seen a lot of comments about don't use it in the heat, or don't use it in the cold, but its pretty durable. Just bury it deep enough and winterize every year. Thanks for watching!

I'd think that it would be fine. It's just a preference. One way saves a little more pipe, the other way saves a little more wire. But definitely check in CA, lol. Thanks for watching and the question!

If the 4 heads are rotors, I'd say that it will probably be fine, they have similar pressure requirements. The only difference is that too high pressure will affect the Maxis but not a regular rotor. Thanks for watching!

You are so welcome, that's what we're here for! Thanks for watching!

Yeah, sorry about that, I'm definitely going to redo this video. It may just be broken, but too low or high pressure can stop these from rotating. Thank you so much for the comment, and thanks for watching!

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

To be honest, I really don't know about that one. There is a possibility that at zone 8, you're exceeding the refresh rate of the well, and that's possibly causing some air in the line. Try splitting your program in half, run 6 zones one day and then 5 the next.

@@Proirrigationtraining thanks for your response. In the past I’ve always run all 11 cycles without issues until recently. Last night I left the bleeder plug in the pump impeller housing cracked open for the entire watering cycle. The system ran fine even though the bleeder dribbled a small amount of water. However when it reached zone 8 it repeated the same issue. Only two heads sprayed water and only at about 30 % normal volume. I did nothing and watched as the bleeder self purged the air, after about three minutes the sprinklers came on full at 100% and the remaining cycles finished out their cycles as well. Leads me to believe that zone 8 might be taking in air from a sprinkler head when not in use.

@@arnoldrodriguez3803 That's interesting that it always happens on zone 8. If the valves are easy to get to, you might should rebuild that valve and see if it's causing the problem. I would think if it's a problem with refresh rate or something about the well, it would probably vary a bit when it happens.

Yeah, no doubt. I'm going to reshoot this one soon. Thanks for watching though!

If your water demand from the system is less than 8 gpm (the recommended limit of schd 40 3/4" PVC) then you'll lose less than 2 psi from the pipe, plus whatever loss from the filter, then you'll gain pressure on the downhill run. If it's 25' straight down elevation loss, then you'll gain 10.8 psi.

It has too much pressure going to it. You could possibly control that if your valve has a Flow Reduction Screw on it. Some manufacturers make a Pressure Reducing Solenoid attachment that you can attach to the valve and reduce the pressure, and thus the speed of the sprinklers.

To be honest, I like them both. Make sure that you use the screens on every nozzle, it helps with debris in the water clogging up the nozzles. The U Series is a Matched Precipitation Rate nozzle family and does a fine job.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you so much for saying that!

Hello! I've never seen that before. I'm pretty sure there's a lot of people that would like to see that. Send a video or link if you build one.

Thank you so much for watching!

In that situation, you're seeing "Pipe sizing." It's not losing pressure in that context, if the pipe is the right size for the water it's needing to carry. When the system or zone starts out, it's maybe pushing 15 gpm, which is within the limits of 1" pipe. But as the zone pipe continues on, and there's less heads to supply, then smaller pipe sizes are ok to carry the reduced flow demand.

There's two ways to do that. You can either charge time plus materials or per item pricing. It's better for newer technicians to charge by the hour, because you don't know how long a lot of tasks will take you. More experienced companies can build a "price book" that has per-item pricing. In my area, and I'm not quite the top priced company, I charge $120 per hour plus materials. And all my parts are marked up 20-50% to account for all the time spent acquiring and stocking parts. The truth is, I use a hybrid model. Most items like changing a rotor or rebuilding or replacing a valve, replacing a timer, etc., I give a firm price for. Replace a 4" rotor is $40 for instance. But tracking wire or finding valves or fixing leaks, I charge time plus materials, and give them exact times and detailed invoices.

@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you for the detailed explanation. It makes sense to charge hourly for wire tracing because its hard to determine how long it will take to find the broken wire. By the way, I did invest in a wire tracer to help me trace wire. But even with the tracer I can seem to find where the spit is. The previous person working on the system placed portable nodes to run the valves in the island where the wire was split.. But they dont seem to ever turn on. I would like to find the wires and get them connected to the main irrigation controller. Do you have some wire tracing videos or some expert advice on how to find the split ?

@@mixingreen There's another tool that maybe you can rent somewhere called a Pulser. I don't own one myself, usually i can find the break with a tracker. But sometimes you need more. Once you mark your wire path with your tracker, you hook up the Pulser and walk it down the wire path. There's a needle on the Pulser frame that will point to the break. Warning though, it will find every single nick or kink in the wire as well as the break.

@@Proirrigationtraining I think I saw a pulser video b4. Im gonna look into getting one. Ty

That's the truth. I do like the piece that the Dry-Conns have to keep the grease in the nut. But other than that, I agree, they're expensive.

Yeah, you're going to have to do a battery/solar pump. And even that may be asking a lot. Check the specs of the sprinkler you bought. It probably has a minimum pressure to operate it. And that 80m hose probably loses a lot of pressure through friction loss. So when sizing a pump to buy, I would make sure it could supply at least 50% more than the min of the sprinkler. Only other option is to raise the tank about 15m higher.

Thanks for the comment. I will remake this video using your comments at some point, I have about 38 others in the cue I have to do first. Sorry that it's not so clear. If you still have the instructions, I believe it says which notch to put the spring on for each nozzle choice.

Hello, thanks for watching and the question. What size nozzles do you have in the sprinklers? 1.5?

You have two choices. You can cut that section out and replace it, or you can get an individual drip emitter and hole punch, pop a new hole in the leaking emitter and force the new emitter down into that hole. Thanks so much for watching and the question!

You're absolutely right about that. Thank you for the comment!!

I'm curious about that too!

No, there shouldn't be any downstream valve from an ASV. You can use a regular solenoid valve as a Master, and still have backflow protection from the ASVs. Thank you so much for watching and your question.

Hi Joel. There's a good chance that the valve body has some debris in the small orifices that make the solenoid work. Take a pipe cleaner or something similar and push through those openings. That's assuming that you've already checked the electrical. But here's a low-tech way to check; take the solenoid out of the valve and have someone turn the zone on at the timer. If you don't see or hear the solenoid actuating, you have an electrical issue.

@@Proirrigationtraining Thanks ! I think its an electrical problem - getting some bad readings. I am going to replace the cable from the control box to the valves and make all clean new connections - a lot of corrosion found and varying resistance measurements.

@@joelbahl6830 Good troubleshooting there! Any time you see some corrosion on the wires, you know there could be a problem. Of course, checking the electrical connections can indicate a problem. I'll always lay the wires out on the ground and hook everything up before I dig anything in.

@@Proirrigationtraining All good now - ran all new wires to the controller and a separate line to the master valve. No junction box outside now to get corroded. Thanks again.

@@joelbahl6830 Glad you got it sorted. Sometimes it's all you can do. At least with a new wiring bundle, you know it's done right and where everything is for the future.

You're welcome and thanks for watching!

ruclips.net/video/vliM1XiUpio/видео.htmlsi=fGedZeImBk--veLe

I just cut them out and use a new Tee to connect it again. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching! I'm trying to drop as much knowledge as I can in these videos.

You definitely have to replace the bonnet or top half of the valve. Sometimes you can find the separate parts of the Irritrol valves, but most of the time you have to buy a new valve and use the bonnet off it.

Yes, they can have constant pressure to them. Thanks for watching!

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